Hey Marseille
Near catastrophes averted by the kindness of strangers
I’m writing this from an overcast Marseille, where the Mistral wind has just finished its annual torrent. The skies are dramatic, just like my first few days in the city, a whoosh of chaos, starting with a lost, sweaty English girl on the verge of tears, knocking on doors in a random building at 8pm on a Monday night trying to find someone, anyone, who knew where the hell she was. Situation averted due to the kindness of strangers, when a door opened and a kind woman let me use her phone to call my Airbnb host (my wifi wasn’t working), at last my apartment was located and I settled down after a tiring, trying day.
Firstly let me clarify, I’m not exactly the adventurous type. I relish a routine, just like a Labrador. I crave comfort, and like to know the order of my day, week, month. The unknown scares me - in other words I like to be in control, not of others, just merely myself. Obviously travel completely derails control, routine and knowing the outcome, and for a slightly OCD leaning person this understandable is anxiety inducing; but it’s also quite thrilling. Learning to untie the shackles that govern your mind - your only option is surrendering to the unknown. Of course it’s scary, but it’s where growth happens, new experiences mean expanding your mind, letting your opinions, thoughts and ideas grow, deepening your understanding of cultures, foods, landscapes, art, literature, music, language, tastes and people. It broadens the mind, unfamiliar situations are uncomfortable and difficult but ultimately you learn from these moments. These learnings can never happen when you’re comfy and cosy, wrapped up in bubblewrap. However much I love bubblewrap, I always had an inkling that there was something out there, something missing, out of reach, and not yet grasped. My sisters jumped at the chance of far flung travel fairly young, and I watched them jet off, quietly feeling smug staying in the comforting embrace of home, of England; rolling hills, those certain smells, and sounds. And then they returned, one from Thailand and another from India, bearing the signs of change; a tan, tired eyes, long hair, they had stories, so many stories. But the biggest change wasn’t physical, it was the way they had grown on the inside, in just a few months my little sisters had grown into adults. In the way they spoke, acted and held themselves. Their minds had expanded, their thoughts, opinions and ideas had deepened, everything about them had broadened. I wondered if I’d ever be brave enough to leap into the unknown, 10 years ago I wasn’t ready, only now at 29, do I feel ready to step off into the abyss of solo travel. I’m ready for those teachings, and I think already these first few days have done exactly that. Taught me that, however hard it may seem, you’ll get through. There’s an unknown strength hidden deep inside everyone that comes to the surface in the hardest moments, when fear melts away, and you push through. I know I’ll have many more difficult situations to conquer in the next two months - hopefully these learnings, these inklings I’m slowly grasping, will help me in the distant future, through life’s twists and turns.
And if in doubt learn the phrase ‘parles-tu anglais?’. That definitely helped.
MARSEILLE RECS
EAT
Le Bonne Mère - the best pizza in Marseille, get the anchovy one. You might be lucky like me and befriend a group of middle aged French men that ply you with free drinks.
VISIT
Calanques national park - a 45 min bus ride from Marseille to Cassis. The most breath-taking scenery; turquoise water, craggy cliffs, gnarled, twisting Pine trees growing right down to the edge of the sea. The terrain is rocky and my legs have never hurt so much, but the views are worth it. See below!
COFFEE
Boujou Coffee - very cool vibe right by Plage de Maldormé. A caffeine hit by the sea, what could be better?
T65 - one of the best Boulangerie’s in town, and conveniently right down my street in the Endoume area of Marseille. Get the plain croissant, buttery and crisp, and the traditional grain baguette, fresh and bouncy. Slice up some Comté, stuff a fresh tomato and a few handfuls of rocket in and you’ve got yourself a divine sandwich.
BOULANGERIE
Maison Saint-Honoré - the Pain Suisse is what dreams are made of.
